Diamond shape guide

Marquise Diamond Guide

Maximum visual spread in a dramatic pointed outline.

What makes a good marquise?

Look for balanced wings, aligned points and an attractive contrast pattern. Extremely thin ends can be vulnerable and should be protected by the setting. A marquise that looks boat-shaped from one angle and pinched from another usually has wing or keel asymmetry—reject it early, even if the paper grades look fine.

Length-to-width ratio

Marquise outlines stretch farther than most fancies. Common preference bands sit around 1.75–2.15; shorter ratios feel fuller and more cushion-like, while longer ones maximize finger coverage but amplify bow-tie and tip fragility. There is no “correct” ratio—pair the number with how the wings curve and whether the points meet cleanly. Calculate length ÷ width from the report, then compare at least three stones of the same carat so outline personality is obvious.

Deep marquises often hide weight. Prefer listings that publish both carat and millimeter length/width so you can spot a stone that looks small for its weight.

Color and clarity

Color often concentrates toward the two tips on elongated marquises. Warmth that is subtle in a round can read stronger at the points, so side-by-side video in your target metal matters more than chasing D–E for status. Faceting can mask small inclusions, but dark crystals along the keel or near either tip remain hard to ignore.

Inspect inclusions at normal viewing distance after you check the magnified plot. Tip-adjacent feathers deserve a durability conversation with the jeweler who will set the stone.

Setting considerations

Both points need protection—V-prongs or similar tip coverage on each end are standard. Low-profile bezels work for active wearers but change the silhouette. Make sure the gallery does not force the wings upward into an awkward “banana” curve once mounted.

Before you buy

• Confirm both points align and the wings mirror each other.
• Watch for a persistent central bow-tie versus acceptable contrast.
• Compare L/W and face-up mm; skip stones that bury weight in depth.
• Check tip color and any tip-adjacent inclusions under intended lighting.
• Plan tip protection in the setting and confirm retailer return terms.

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